Getting through Customs

Hey everyone,

How to start? For those of you who don't know what I'm up to, I'm starting a teaching job in a town called Nablus, which is located in the West Bank. I'll be teaching english, photography, and computer science. The organiazation I work for is also setting up centers called Bridges to the World where Palestinian refugees can write blogs and sign up for online college courses. I'm here on a tourist visa because people working with palestinians in the occupied territories aren't allowed to enter the country. In the London airport I was busy marking my tourist book with sites that I would be "visiting." I carefully arranged my backpack so that all my tourist cover would be seen first by Israeli security. I nervously rehearsed my answers to any questions I thought I would be asked by customs agents. While on the plane from London to Tel Aviv I tried to think about anything but my emminent encounter with visa /customs agents. My nervousness was exacerbated by the fact that back in the states I'm being investigated by the fbi, likely related to my contacts with Palestinians and advocacy of a more balanced US foreign policy. Frankly, I'm not sure, they've not contacted me, only questioned former employers and people associated with me. When I arrived at Ben Gurion international airport it was virtually deserted. After taking a nervous pee, I arrived at the visa booths, forcing a smile and trying to import a look of giddy excitement into my eyes. Three women inhabited the foreign passport booths. I handed a large ornery looking woman my passport and flight information waiting for the question "so what exactly are you going to do in this tiny country for nine months?" Instead she asked "What's the purpose of your visit?" "Tourism" I replied. "Where are you going" she shot back, carefully examining my face. "All over really, Eliat, Jerusalem, Nazareth..." "Do you know anyone here?" "Yeah, my uncle lives in...he works there." I desperately hoped she wouldn't want to talk to him as I hadn't had a chance to explain the situation fully. I was also reticent to mention or his family for fear of jepordizing the wonderful life he and his family have started here.

She stamped my passport and I was on my way. I figured there would be at least one more rung of checks, after all this place has a fierce reputation for tight security and use of military and interrogation tactics to scare the truth out of people. My uncle was waiting there, we said our hellos and tried to make our way out of the airport. I say tried because we left and re-entered at least 5 times attempting to find the parking lot. It was almost 9 pm and the traffic was bumper to bumper. It's hard to overstate the insanity of Israeli drivers. The lines between lanes might as well have not existed. Bumpers on every car looked like they had been hit on a daily basis. Motorcyclists wove in and out of the chaotic traffic. I read that more Israelis have died in car accidents over the years than in all the wars and terrorism incidents combined. Within 15 minutes this fact was not difficult to believe. Gotta go, but I'll keep in touch. Feel free to contact me whenever, and if you want to be taken off the e-mail list just let me know. If you know anyone who might want to be added, I'd be happy to do so.

Shalom,

Mike